No, not Venice, Russia!
Visas into Russia are expensive and difficult to procure.
The easiest way to see St. Petersburg on a cruise is to go on an excursion
arranged by the cruise itself with a visa included in the arrangements. So for
my trip into St. Petersburg I chose a canal tour and then a stop at the
beautiful and amazing Church of the Spilled Blood.
Our tour had a truly charming guide who addressed us
consistently as “Dearest Group 12.” Elena probably said this to remind us of
our tour number in the midst of swirling crowds, but it was still very
effective.
St. Petersburg is an important port for Russia but has few
natural resources. When Peter the Great won the land back from Sweden in 1703
and wanted to complete the city of his vision, he had to import every stone,
every artist from another country. He used an Italian designer to create the
plan for the city, using the rivers and canals to create the “Venice of
Russia.”
As a result there is (for me) a feeling of two cities: the
expected Russian grey and bleak outer city and then a very colorful,
Italian-type city along the main rivers of St. Petersburg. Each member of the
royal Romanav family produced their own large family and each child needed
their own palace when they became an adult…and it appears, that palace needed
to be better than their cousin’s or uncle’s. Thus, as Elena told us, there are
300 palaces (and one castle).
A "coffee house" for the ladies of Tzarina Catherine in the midst of her park.
The Church of the Spilled Blood
The Church of the Spilled Blood was built to honor Tsar Alexander
II after his assassination. A small shrine in the church marks the spot where a
grenade was thrown at him in 1881. His son Alexander III built the church to
honor his memory. It was begun in 1883 but was not completed until 1907. Among all of the Italian architecture of the
city, the church stands out for its more traditional…and even medieval…Russian
architecture. While the outside of the church is striking, it’s the interior
and its over 25,000 square feet of mosaics that is breathtaking. The main
pillars are biblical figures, but I was equally entranced with the floral
borders designed to depict the Garden of Eden. Not one border is repeated
throughout the entire church!
Wikipedia has a concise version of the church’s history
after the Revolution of 1917: “In the aftermath of the
Russian
Revolution, the church was ransacked and looted, badly damaging its
interior. The
Soviet
government closed the church in the early 1930s. During the
Second World War when many
people were starving due to the
Siege of Leningrad by Nazi
German military forces, the church was used as a temporary morgue for those who
died in combat and from starvation and illness. The church suffered significant
damage. After the war, it was used as a
warehouse for vegetables,
leading to the sardonic name of ‘Savior on Potatoes.’”
Elena told us about her own experience of the long process
of restoration of the Church. Begun in 1970, the church was covered in
scaffolding and concealed from the public for 27 years. Coming up out of the
Metro every day, she never gave it a second glance. After all that time, no one
even thought about what was under the exterior coverings. She told us that “no
one can believe it” on the day that it was completely revealed again in 1997.
If you’d like to read more, the link to the Church is here: http://eng.cathedral.ru/saviour
-- Mary